First Impressions from Cuba

For the first time in a million miles, I found myself with more questions than answers at the end of a trip. Usually my on-the-ground research is enough to form a solidly positive or negative opinion about a new place, but not in Cuba. I was utterly confounded from Havana in the northwest to Santiago de Cuba in the southeast.

An example of my inner tumult: I snapped hundreds of photos of crumbling edifices while thinking how beautiful and poetic it was, only to be jolted by the reality of the “beauty.” It’s crumbling and decrepit because no one can afford to care for it. Most Cubans only make $20 a month regardless of occupation, so building upkeep literally can’t be a priority.

I was hyper-aware of every photo I took. Was I portraying this time capsule with an appropriate perspective, or was I viewing Cuba through rose-colored glasses?

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It’s been a while since I’ve visited such a complex place. In other countries with political complications, there hasn’t been the same natural allure. Growing up in Florida, surrounded by both the remnants of Spanish colonialism and plenty of natural-born Cubans and their hyphenated descendants, I had a built-in connection that I never had with the slums in Kenya or barrios in Bolivia. Still, nothing quite prepared me for the internal struggle to capture Cuba realistically, respecting the pain of a revolutionary past and the hope of a better future.

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First Impressions from Cuba

01. It’s the most complicated country I’ve ever visited

No sooner would I conclude that Cuba was definitely A, B & C, then I’d see something or learn something from our Cuban guide that would make me think perhaps it was really X, Y & Z. The reality of Cuba is that it’s a land of juxtaposition, and there aren’t a whole lot of concrete answers.

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First Impressions from Cuba

02. It’s tragically beautiful

Because of its forbidden status, many Americans imagine a romantic, glamorous Cuba stuck in time. A land of classic cars and wizened old men smoking cigars on the same barstool where Hemingway (allegedly) sat. Cliché fedoras, brightly colored buildings and salsa music wafting down streets heavy with Caribbean humidity. The reality is rather more jarring than that.

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First Impressions from Cuba

First Impressions from Cuba

First Impressions from Cuba

It’s a time capsule to be sure, but next to gleaming cars from the 50s are dilapidated buildings that residents still inhabit. The reality of Cuba is that 11 million people live off $20 a month. Food is still rationed. Plenty has changed since Castro first came to power, but it’s still a hardscrabble life. What looks like a charming vintage postcard to outsiders is a result of decades of Cuban oppression, and I never wanted to forget that as I marveled over cars, cigars and mojitos.

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First Impressions from Cuba

03. There’s more to Cuba than classic cars & cigars

Speaking of cars & cigars! There was a wide variety of passengers onboard the Adonia, psychographically and demographically; from emotional Cuban-Americans hadn’t been home in 47 years, to cranky codgers who cared little about impact travel, to journalists, TV commentators and bloggers who processed all the information and disseminated it to their audiences around the world.

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First Impressions from Cuba

First Impressions from Cuba

First Impressions from Cuba

Passengers seemed divided into two distinct camps: those who believed in the Cuban time machine fantasy, with its gleaming, candy-colored classic cars and smiling faces, and those who were eager to dig deeper and wander off the path in search of the real story. Isn’t that always the way with travelers though?

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04. It’s vulnerable

I stumbled upon the rehearsal for the star-studded Chanel fashion show, and then found out that the Kardashians were in town, too. There is such a thing as too much, too soon. (And the Kardashians are too much, always.) As Cuba and the U.S. move toward a positive relationship after so many frozen years, it’s my hope that the American presence positively impacts real Cubans and that our pseudo-celebrities and consumptionism aren’t our major contribution. Cuban society would be better off without Kim & Kanye’s help, graciasverymuch.

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05. Cruising is the easiest way to visit Cuba – for now.

Hotel rooms are scarce and expensive; international flights are limited and domestic ones are a nightmare to book; most cell carriers don’t cover Cuba (yet); and you can’t use American credit cards on the ground.

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First Impressions from Cuba

If Cuba is on your bucket list and you just have to go RIGHT NOW, book with Fathom Travel. You only unpack once in 7 nights, you can stay connected via the ship’s surprisingly good WiFi and you’re blessed with copious air conditioning and plentiful toilet paper.

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First Impressions from Cuba

As hesitant as I am to shout from the rooftops that Cuba is THEBESTOMG, I do recommend Fathom very highly, particularly for anyone who wants to dig a bit deeper into the destination than you would on a traditional cruising experience.

In reality, Cuba is still a land of revolution. Where it will go, I have no idea. After all they’ve been through, the Cuban people deserve rest and prosperity, and I’m hopeful that it’s just around the corner.

COME AWAY WITH ME!
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  • May 13, 2016

    I had so many of the exact same thoughts when I visited a decade ago!
    Kristin @ Camels & Chocolate recently posted..California Dreaming: Planning a Family Vacation to Santa CruzMy Profile

  • May 13, 2016
    Deb Metzler

    Angie, what a profound experience you had and what a profoundly – stated commentary. Very well done!!

  • May 13, 2016
    Kim Henrichs

    Such a great, balanced review. It is always interesting to visit a place that’s so beautiful and yet financially the people struggle so much.

    The photos are gorgeous!! Gonna go dream of a decent mojito….

  • May 13, 2016

    Graciasverymuch made me smile. 🙂 I always enjoy your posts.

  • May 14, 2016

    A lot of bloggers have already headed to Cuba. This is the first post addressing the situation there that I’ve seen and it really makes you think about it differently. Sure, the beaches look gorgeous but just as I felt uncomfortable holed up in my luxury resort while the slums of Zanzibar spilled from the barb wire topped walls of that resort, I suspect I’d feel similar while Cubans make so little and still live in oppression.
    Jennifer recently posted..Tasting the Original Tiramisu at Le BeccherieMy Profile

  • May 14, 2016
    Amy

    Thoughtfully written and heartfelt. Thank you for sharing your musings with us

  • May 14, 2016
    Ceil Mena

    Beautifully stated Angie! Wish I had met you on the cruise.

  • May 16, 2016

    Your photos are beautiful. Everyone is saying “go to Cuba before it’s too late” but if the K’Wests are there, it’s probably already too late. I think I’ll now be waiting until the hype dies down.
    Leigh | Campfires & Concierges recently posted..Bangkok Tuk Tuk TourMy Profile

  • May 20, 2016
    Paul Muldawer

    Your photos were excellent. I would like to know your impressions of Cienfuegos and Santiago de Cuba.

  • May 24, 2016

    Great piece Angie. Well balanced.. Love your pictures…

  • June 10, 2016

    Oh wow! I have so many mixed feelings about visiting Cuba that I decided not to visit this year. Looking at your photos I regret this decision slightly. I can’t wait to read more about your Cuban trip!
    Dominique recently posted..Warsaw – A Two Day ItineraryMy Profile

  • June 23, 2016
    Ray

    Your bag of mixed emotions with Cuba is how we all feel when we first arrive. In many way, Cuba does seem like the most beautiful country ever with its 1950s charm, laid-back lifestyle. But, in other ways, you are still reminded of the oppression and hard times that Cubans experience from day to day.

    I remember visiting an appliance store in Santa Clara the last time I was in Cuba, and prices for washers and dryers were comparable to prices back home in Canada. Absolutely ridiculous given how the majority of Cubans must live off $20/month.

    My greatest fear with the United States slowly rebuilding its relations with Cuba again is the fear of the “Kardashianism” that will take place – as you so elegantly put it. Prior to the Cuban Revolution, Havana was nothing more than a playground for America’s rich and elite while the rest of the Cuban population continued to be oppressed by President Batista. But, most Americans tend to “forget” that part of Cuban history or are just completely ignorant about it altogether. Castro has given his people free healthcare and free education for what it’s worth.

    Let’s just hope that history doesn’t repeat itself again when Americans are welcomed back with open arms.
    Ray recently posted..Santa Clara – My Near Date With Che GuevaraMy Profile

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