Hiking Hanakāpīʻai Falls Trail: The Punishing Side of Paradise
I’ll be the first to admit it: I’m not a natural-born hiker. If you’ve read my book or been around here any length of time, you know I am not the girl who wakes with a spring in my step, excited to tackle rugged trails and climb over rocks like some kind of mountain goat. But I am the kind of girl with FOMO and an overestimated sense of my physical abilities, and that has now lead me to complete the Hanakāpīʻai Falls Trail three whole times – in 2008, 2012 and 2024.
This is the type of trail that makes you question your life choices like 200 yards in, yet somehow, I did it to myself again in November. Why? Because I keep going back to the stunning island of Kauai with different people, and they want to do it, so then I have to do it.
A lot has changed since my last visit to the Kalalau Trail on the Na Pali Coast, the least concerning to you of course is the amount of cartilage still left in my knees, but I wanted to share some tips, tricks and lessons for hiking this particular part of the trail you won’t get anywhere else. Why? Because I’m the only one who’s gonna tell you the truth – it was even more challenging and more slippery than I remember, and I have some very strong feelings about it.
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What is the Hanakāpīʻai Falls Trail?
The Hanakapiai Falls Trail is an 8-mile out-and-back trail that leads you through some of the most spectacular terrain Kauai has to offer. Located in Na Pali Coast State Park, this trail takes you from the Kalalau Trailhead at Ke’e Beach to the Hanakapiai Falls, a 300-foot waterfall with an icy cold pool you can swim in. If you haven’t been to Kauai, just think of Jurassic Park minus the T-Rex, and you’ve got the idea.
Along the way, you criss-cross rivers and streams, navigate a slick muddy trail, scramble over wet rocks and generally test your endurance and will to live. Even AllTrails classifies it as HARD, so it’s not just me.
Why I Keep Hiking the Hanakapiai Falls Trail (In Spite of All Evidence Telling me to STOP)
Now, let me tell you something: I had hiked this trail twice before. The first time around 2008 with my little brother. I had all the optimism in the world from never having tried it before, plus a big dose of being in my twenties. It was hard, but I did it and by the next time I tried it, I’d forgotten how difficult it really was.
The second attempt, with my brother and two of our friends from back home, we purposely went off the trail — in hindsight one of the most foolish decisions I’ve ever made – and we almost didn’t make it off the trail before dark. I lost two toenails and ached for weeks. And I swore with my whole being that I’d never set foot on the Hanakapiai Trail ever again.
Twelve years later, I rock up to the trailhead with my husband who literally a giant lumberjack. Scrambling over big rocks and leapfrogging from riverbank to riverbank isn’t even hard for him, so we had very different experiences out on the Na Pali Coast. I’ll say this: the Hanakapiai Falls trail does not get easier with age. It only gets harder with every attempt.
Things to Know Before Hiking along the Na Pali Coast
Slippery Slopes, Muddy Mayhem
- Kauai’s thick red mud is legendary. No exaggeration, it’s like someone dumped a bucket of glue in the middle of a rainforest and said, “Here’s a fun thing to do in Kauai.” In spots along the Hanakapiai Trail, it can be ankle-deep, squelching-through-the-muck kind of muddy. No matter how many times I’ve hiked this trail, I forget how much effort it takes to keep your footing on the slick paths. Every step is a fun guessing game of “Will I stay upright?”
- Did you know that Kauai is home to the wettest spot on Earth, Mount Waiʻaleʻale, which gets 400+ inches of rain per year? That means that even if it’s not actively raining, the trail is probably slick from the rain that just stopped. By the time you get to the first stream crossing, it’s likely your legs are covered with mud and your shoes will never be the same.
- It’s unpredictable. One minute, you’ll be trekking through some dry ground, feeling confident and smug, and the next minute, you’re slipping through a stream of thick, rust-colored slop that almost takes you down. (And down could mean on your butt, down an embankment onto a bed of sharp rocks or into the crashing Pacific Ocean.)
Pro tip: People hike this trail in everything from expensive hiking boots to tennis shoes to flip-flops to barefoot. All I can say is make good choices.
Stream Crossings: A Game of “Will I Fall In?”
- After the first two miles of coast hugging trail, you come to Ke’e Beach and the first of many stream crossings. Depending on water levels, these can either be a quick hop across rocks or full-on, waist-high crossings. The streams can go from gentle to flash flood in an instant, and the rocks are slippery—so don’t let your guard down here. We had to carefully navigate the rocks while trying not to fall into the water, which was moving pretty fast.
- Some hikers opt to take their shoes off and wade through, but I’d recommend keeping your shoes on for grip (and to avoid stepping on sharp rocks or unseen debris). This is when it comes in handy to bring water shoes and dry socks!
How Long Does it take to Hike the Hanakapiai Falls Trail?
They say the entire hike takes around 4-6 hours, but I find it takes me about an hour per mile at my pace. I’ve never gotten out under 8 hours. Keep in mind that you’ll be even more fatigued on the return leg, so plan accordingly and give yourself enough time to get back to the shuttle before dark.
Suggested Timing for the Hanakapiai Trail
7 – 9 a.m. Trailhead to Hanakapiai Beach
The first section of the trail, which is about 2 miles long, takes you from the Ke’e Beach trailhead to Hanakapiai Beach. This part of the hike is relatively moderate but can be slippery, especially after rain.
THE HOTTEST TIP I’VE EVER GIVEN: While Hanakapiai Beach is a stunner, please don’t even consider swimming in the ocean here. I follow a bunch of Kauai news accounts, and it’s rare that a month goes by without at least one unsuspecting tourist being swept away, never to be seen again. Hanakapiai Beach is known for its strong currents, unpredictable waves and powerful rip tides, which make it hazardous for swimmers — even experienced ones. The surf can be particularly rough during the winter months, and the area is not monitored by lifeguards or anyone. You are at the edge of the Earth here, folks. If you fall in, you’re gone.
9 – 11 a.m. Hanakapiai Beach to Hanakapiai Falls
Great news – there’s now a rugged restroom stop here! The only one on the trail, so use it if you need to.
After taking a break at Hanakapiai Beach (a safe distance from the shore), you head into the more rugged terrain of the next section. The next 2 miles are steep, muddy, rocky and hot as you move through dense jungle and cross more streams. If you’re going to encounter a wild boar, this is where it would happen.
Eventually, covered in mud and starting to question why you ever left the hotel, you get your first glimpse of towering Hanakapiai Falls and you think ok, I made it. But you’ve still got a while to go, even after you spot the falls through a break in the trees. And that’s the trickiest, most slippery and steep spot.
Once you get there, yay! Stop and enjoy. This is what you came for. Have a swim in the icy pool below the falls, just watch for falling rocks above and pointy ones in the water below.
Noon – 2 p.m. Hanakapiai Falls to Hanakapiai Beach
After soaking in the view and maybe grabbing a snack or having some lunch to refuel, you’ll need to start your return hike. There is no other trail or shortcut to take – don’t be an idiot like me and try to test that assertion – you need to retrace your steps the way you came. The climb out can be even tougher on the way back, especially after your muscles have already been fatigued by the descent.
Plan to have a rinse in the stream and another snack / restroom break once you get to Hanakapiai Beach. The last two miles are deceptively tough.
2 p.m. – 4 p.m. Hanakapiai Beach to Ke’e Beach (Trailhead / Shuttle)
Question your life choices as you complete the 8-mile round-trip, rolling down the last slope into the parking lot, dragging your lump of a body onto the shuttle and winding your way back to either your car or hotel in Hanalei / Princeville.
Tips for Hiking the Hanakapiai Falls Trail (From Someone Who Really Doesn’t Like Hiking)
I’ve done this trail three times now, so I suppose I can offer some advice for anyone brave (or foolish) enough to try it. Here’s what I’ve learned:
1. Get a Permit (No, Really)
I know, I know—it sounds like one more thing to deal with, but for a variety of reasons, there are limits to how many hikers can go out each day, so the state has created a reservation and shuttle system for anyone wanting to attempt the Hanakapiai Falls hike.
From the DNLR site: “Nāpali Coast State Wilderness Park and its famed Kalalau Trail is one of the most popular park destinations on the planet, and competition for the few backcountry permits is fierce.”
Kalalau Trail and Hanakapiai Falls Trail: Updated Rules and Permits
Both the Kalalau Trail and the Hanakapiai Falls Trail are part of the Na Pali Coast State Park on Kauai, and both have rules to protect the environment and ensure safety. While the Kalalau Trail has long required permits for camping, the Hanakapiai Falls Trail has seen new regulations in recent years due to increasing visitor numbers and parking congestion.
- To hike the Kalalau Trail beyond Hanakapiai Beach and camp at Kalalau Beach (the end of the trail), you need a camping permit. This is a backcountry hike, and camping is only allowed in designated areas.
- In recent years, the Hanakapiai Falls Trail has undergone some important changes. One of the key changes is the shuttle requirement due to limited parking at the Ke’e Beach Trailhead.The parking lot at Ke’e Beach, where the trail begins, has limited space. To address this, the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) now requires all hikers to take a shuttle to access the trail. The shuttle service operates between Hanalei / Princeville and Ke’e Beach. This is a $40 round-trip fee, which you must book in advance. The shuttle is mandatory and must be arranged ahead of time. Reserve your permit here.
- Shuttle Schedule: The shuttle typically runs during peak hours, but availability can vary depending on the time of year and demand. We were on the first shuttle out and the last one home before dark.
2. Check the Weather—Seriously
This trail is already tough, but if you hike in the rain, you’re basically cooked. I’ve learned this the hard way. You can’t trust the weather on Kauai—it’ll go from sunny to monsoon in 20 minutes. Check the forecast before you go, and make sure you’re ready for whatever Mother Nature throws your way. Otherwise, you’ll be trudging through knee-deep mud in a downpour while silently questioning all your life decisions. Also, please note that they will shut the trail down if conditions are unsafe, and especially in the winter, that happens at least once a week. Keep an eye on conditions and notices before you get up early to meet the shuttle.
3. Wear Sturdy Shoes (Because Flip Flops Are a Terrible Idea)
You need serious footwear for this trail. Flip-flops or sandals will make you regret every decision you’ve ever made, although I only speak for myself here. My own brother has hiked it barefoot, so maybe I’m just a baby. If you don’t want to end up on your butt, or at the bottom of a ravine, I’d go for shoes with grip.
4. Hydrate (Because You’ll Need It)
This hike is tough, and you’ll need all the energy you can get. Make sure to bring plenty of water and snacks. Kauai is full of farmer’s markets where you can load up on tasty local produce to snack on as you hike. Trust me—by the time you get to the waterfall, you’ll be questioning whether you packed enough snacks for your journey back. Pack at least 2-3 liters of water. I didn’t, and by the end, I was wondering if I was going to have to start licking the trees for moisture.
5. Pace Yourself (Or Take a Nap Mid-Hike)
The trail is not a race. It’s not a sprint (I’m mostly directing this to the people running past me at any given time). It’s an endurance test that will make you want to take multiple naps. Don’t overexert yourself. Stop, catch your breath and take in the sights – the coastal views are outrageous. There’s a surprise bamboo forest. It’s pleasant (if you don’t have blisters) to spend time on the way in and out at the beach rinsing off and cooling your heels in the streams.
6. Enjoy the Falls, Even If You Want to Cry at the End
After what feels like hours of torture, you’ll finally reach the Hanakapiai Falls – they are gorgeous. The pool below is cold and probably anti-inflammatory, so soak it in. You’ll probably want to take a photo, do a victory dance or cry tears of relief. But whatever you do, don’t feel bad for just standing there, out of breath and wondering if you’ll ever walk again.
7. Strategize Hike Timing
We made quite a few bad decisions on the last trip to Hawaii and one was spending just three nights on Kauai before hopping over to the Big Island. Each Hawaiian island really warrants its own week or more to explore, and we thought since we were returning to Kauai that we wouldn’t need as much time. That was silly.
The other poor decision was doing the Hanakapiai Falls hike early on in the trip because we spent the rest of our Hawaii vacation with pulled muscles and wonky knees. It definitely made the rest of the trip less fun because we weren’t as mobile and we ran out of Advil.
Another thought: the last time we hiked to Hanakapiai Falls, our friend had a 9 p.m. flight that very night. That was not wise for 100 reasons. So just keep all that in mind as you plan.
8. Find a Walking Stick
I’m only 5’3″ and I can’t imagine doing this hike without a walking stick. Rick didn’t need one with his long legs, but I literally wouldn’t have made it without one. If you’re one of the first people to get to the trailhead in the morning, there may be some good ones waiting near the entrance signage, but you may just want to plan ahead and bring your own walking poles.
9. Leave the Little Kids at Home
There were SO many people on the trail with babies – like, newborn babies. If I had a baby, the last place I’d bring it would be the slippery, steep cliff paths of the Na Pali Coast. There’s just no reason to put yourself or your kiddo in danger, and this hike is famous for the injuries it produces. People are consistently slipping and smashing their heads on rocks or twisting ankles and breaking bones. Getting helicoptered out of there is not as uncommon as you would think. If you have kiddos but are set on doing the hike, hire a local sitter.
Final Thoughts on Hiking the Hanakāpīʻai Trail: Why Do I Keep Doing This?
At the end of the day, I’m never going to be an avid hiker. I’m the person who’d rather be lying by the 1 Hotel Hanalei pool with a Mai Tai in hand. But there’s something about the Hanakapiai Falls Trail, and Kauai in general, that keeps drawing me back. Maybe it’s the challenge. Maybe it’s the fact that I can tell people, “Yeah, I did that hike three times, no big deal,” while behind the scenes I’m still dealing with the nerve pain in my arm and toenails I lost on Round 3. Either way, the experience is worth it—just don’t expect me to be thrilled about it.
If you’re up for a challenge, go for it. Just remember to bring sturdy shoes, lots of water and food, your shuttle reservation and a sense of humor—because you’ll need it.
