There’s more to Turkey than just Istanbul – a lot more!
If you find yourself in Constantinople and have a couple of days to spend elsewhere in the country, hop an 11-hour bus ride to Göreme, a Cappadocian town with a population of 2,500. What it lacks in people, it makes up for with personality and a landscape you won’t find anywhere else. Here are some suggestions for how to spend your time in the area.
GET HIGH. Cappadocia’s No. 1 attraction is hot air ballooning. Yes, it’s an early wake-up and an expensive splurge, but it’s one of the most beautiful landscapes you’ll ever see. Must do! (Check out my post with lots of unbelievable photos.)
GET LOW. Though no one currently lives in Cappadocia’s underground cities, there used to be a thriving world underneath all the splendor of the fairy chimneys. There are 36 cities carved into the ancient volcanic rock underground, the most famous and extensive being Derinkuyu (the deepest) and Kaymakli (the widest). Originally inhabited by the Hittites, the early Christians sought refuge from their oppressors in these secret hideaways. UNESCO World Heritage site Derinkuyu has at least eight levels and is 85 m deep, with room for schools, food storage, kitchens, stalls for animals, churches, wine and oil presses, wells and ventilation shafts. In Derinkuyu alone there was space for thousands to hide out for an extended period of time. Heavy stone doors were carved to block the corridors in case of attack. Not for the claustrophobic.
GET LOST. No matter how much I claim to dislike hiking, I always end up on some trail or another, convinced by a friend that we just have to do it. In and around Göreme, hiking is the cheapest & most organic way to get a feel for the enormity and absurdity of the fairy chimneys, the surrounding valleys and the caves. Amber, my travel partner in crime during my trip to Cappadocia, and & I set out on a stroll one day and ended up in the middle of who-knows-where, without sufficient water or food or a compass or a flare gun. But still, in hindsight it was a great adventure.
GET FED. You can’t hike all over creation without fueling your body, so fortunately Turkish food is tasty and substantial. Pottery kebabs filled with lamb or beef, huge servings of fresh baked pitas and breads, meze options and traditional gozleme (sort of Turkish pizza) will keep you smiling in between all the rest of the activities. It’s tradition to top off every meal with yummy apple tea – look, you’re nearly Turkish!
Crack it open! Pottery kebab!
GET SMART. It’s only a 15-minute walk from town to the Göreme Open Air Museum, a collection of old rock-carved monasteries, each with its own church carved directly into the rock. The churches were built in the 10th, 11th & 12th centuries and feature colorful frescoes of Jesus & Bible narratives on the interiors. Apple Church, Snake Church & Sandals Church are some of the must-sees, with the brightest, most vivid frescoes.
GET FRIENDLY. It’s not all active all the time in Göreme! In fact, long meals and long chats are a staple of Turkish society. Find a rooftop with cozy cushions and a great view, sip apple tea and make new friends. It’s easy to do in this bizarrely landscaped little town.
