Misadventures in Thailand

Disclaimer: This post contains a picture of a spider. Ewwww.

You’ve obviously ascertained by now that I was either severely jet-lagged or quite ill during much of my stay in Thailand, so Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Koh Yao didn’t really get a fair shake. If  (and that’s a big if) I ever return, I will endeavor to be more healthy and thus, more enthusiastic.

The moments when I could stand up straight and think clearly were limited, and I regret to say many of them were filled with misadventures. Let’s call them misadventures because at least it still sounds fun…

1. Though it’s not the first time I’ve been peppered with questions about my marital status, my visit to Thailand was the first instance where I’ve ever felt like I had to explain it 10 times a day to an unbelieving population.

  • Me: Table for one, please.
  • Waiter: Only one? 
  • Me: Yes. Only one.
  • Waiter: You are by yourself? (cocks eyebrow suspiciously)
  • Me: Yes.
  • Waiter: Only one person? No husband? No boyfriend? 
  • Me: Right. One person. Solo traveling around the world. No spouse.
  • Waiter: You are eating alone? 
  • Me: Yes. YES! ALL BY MYSELF!

YES, I’m ALONE. First of all, I’m from the South, so I already get enough grief for being 29 and unmarried from the settled down folks back home. Second, I was feeling awfully lonely after being sick with no one to take care of me, so all the waiters and hotel receptionists who inquired again and again and again were just rubbing salt in an open wound.

  • Concierge at check in: Are you alone?
  • Me: Yes.
  • Concierge at check in: Will anyone else be joining you?
  • Me: Are you asking if I’m here for sex tourism? 
  • Concierge: Nevermind. Here’s 4 breakfast vouchers for your two night stay.
  • Me: GAHHHHH.
  • Me: I’d like to order the Cobb Salad please with the dressing on the side.
  • Room service: Is that all? 
  • Me: Yes, thanks.

Moments later, the phone rings

  • Me: Hello?
  • Room service: Sorry, did you want two salads? 
  • Me: No, just one salad.
  • Room service: So nothing else for anyone else? 
  • Me: Nope. I’m on my own.
  • Room service: Ooooh. Sorry for that!
Table for one.

2. I have a debilitating phobia of cockroaches – dead and alive. I’m not exaggerating when I say debilitating. I don’t even have to see one to stress; if I so much as suspect there might be one anywhere around I freak out with eye twitches, panic attacks & hives. I certainly can’t be expected to sleep. The whole thing is not pretty. It’s also not rational that I have zero fear of sharks and yet can’t sleep in a room where there may have been a harmless insect in the past month.

Anyhow, the moment I landed in Thailand I could sense they were all around me. The market in Sukhothai where I saw them and other bugs grilled up to perfection on a food cart confirmed it and several night time walks across Chiang Mai with Amber & Anna sent me screaming and running down the sidewalk. I swear the whole place is held up by a hundred million of the suckers seething under the sewers. Ewww, I’m giving myself the heebie-jeebies.

Thanks to Amber’s stomping upon arrival in any new guesthouse, I didn’t come across any critters while in Laos. It wasn’t until I got back to Thailand that I had a little incident.

I just woke up and stumbled into the bathroom to brush my teeth. I have a roach radar like nobody’s business, so moments after I started brushing away, my eyes were drawn to the huge thing lying dead (yes, dead) on the floor way too close to my bare feet. (You have no idea how hard it is for me to write this without a glass of wine.) I did what any sane American traveler would do – I yelled a few choice words at the dead creature and then ran full speed out of my villa, foaming at the mouth (with toothpaste – I’m not that crazy) and screaming for help while on the verge of tears.

The poor staff came running from all directions with genuine concern on their faces. The way I was carrying on, you’d think there was a man with a blood-dripping axe in the bathroom.

I directed the entire horrified staff into the room of doom and followed hesitantly behind. The pool guy looked up quizzically, not seeing anything remotely frightening in the bathroom. When I pointed to the roach, he laughed and said, “It’s dead!”

THEN, oh my gosh, I can hardly even get the words down I’m so heebie-jeebied, he picked it up with his bare hands… and that sent me running outside again in a panic. Land sakes! He probably took it home and grilled it – was definitely eating size if that’s your thing.

(There were also multiple incidents with huge spiders, but I’m not scared of them. Spiders are no match for my ninja ways.)

3. I had one day left in Koh Lanta before heading back for an overnight in Bangkok, and since I wasn’t quite well enough to dive, I signed up at my hotel’s desk for boat excursion to Phi Phi Island. The seas were quite large and several passengers gave up breakfast during the ride. Upon arrival, about 16 tour participants transferred to a long tail boat. Unbeknownst to us, that’s far too many people for a long tail boat, especially in huge, semi-violent seas. We set off for the famed beaches & coves in the area, a ride which should’ve taken 20 minutes. Forty-five minutes later, after our captain had to repair his sputtering, smoking engine en route, we reached a protected cove where half of the passengers had meltdowns. There were three Korean girls who couldn’t swim who were convinced we’d never make it back; one guy of indeterminate origin who was chain smoking nervously and counting lifejackets (there weren’t enough); and a German guy who shouted, “If I don’t get off this boat I’m going to kill everyone on it!”

Not supposed to happen

So yeah. A good time was had by all.

Our tour guide eventually let us in on the secret, “The waves are too big to go to the beach or any of the coves.” Right. The whole reason anyone was on this long tail boat to nowhere was to see these breathtaking sights. Instead, we sat on the tiny boat in the protected cove for the duration of the tour, eating curry (the wisdom of serving curry when there are no bathrooms is beyond my understanding) and trying not to upset the unhinged German guy.

In the end, we all lived to tell the tale. But I know in my heart we came really close to a Gilligan’s Island (or LOST) scenario.

Other misadventures not told here: bugs in my food, bug crawling up my neck, hotel staff always saying yes to everything and never actually giving correct information – causing me to miss my only opportunity for the ferry… the list goes on.

When I added up the good times and weighed them against the bad times in Thailand, I’m disappointed to confess I was overjoyed to leave. I’m sure Thailand is amazing – I just didn’t get the best of it on my trip. I wouldn’t rule out a return visit necessarily; but it would take quite a bit of arm twisting.

COME AWAY WITH ME!
Get exclusive updates with all the latest news and posts delivered directly to your inbox
  • July 20, 2011
    Wezby

    Sorry you didn’t have a good time in Thailand. I enjoyed Thailand alot and look forward to going back since I didn’t get to spend enough time there (only 4-5 days) and I didn’t even get to go check out the beaches.

    • July 20, 2011

      Just too much nonsense really! I’m sure if I ever make it back it will be a completely different experience.

  • July 20, 2011

    OMG you should have warned me about that pic ahhhhhhhhh!!! I HATE roaches too. Gross!!!!!!!!

    • July 20, 2011

      You’re right! I will go in and put a disclaimer… I would want others to do that for me in the case of cockroaches. EEEEK!

      • July 20, 2011
        Wezby

        The pic freaked me out too! I have a huge fear of spiders, just thinking about them makes my skin crawl. I’m glad I didn’t see something like that in my room anywhere, or I would have let out the most embarrassing girly scream ever!

  • July 23, 2011

    Bummer that you didn’t have the best time in Thailand.

    HOWEVER, you didn’t get killed by a curry-eating German backpacker. And that seems kind of positive, right!?

    • July 24, 2011

      That was definitely a plus =) He was absolutely crazy & quite serious about getting off that boat!

  • July 30, 2011
    Marion

    HI, I don’t know if you remember me I was travelling with my boyfriend Sebastien (a black man) in Thailand… we met in the Kho Phiphi trip.
    I was laughing reading your post…. so funny 🙂
    Hope you are well and still happy and enjoying your vacation.

    • July 30, 2011

      Hi! Of course I remember! Who could forget any detail of that crazy day?! =)

      Do you have any pictures of our group of survivors?

  • December 21, 2011

    LOL at the German guy! man oh man! Sorry about your “mis”adventures in Thailand; but like you said, you still survived and lived to tell =o)

    • December 21, 2011

      In hindsight I can laugh at it… but while I was there I was not a happy camper! Thanks for reading =)

  • December 21, 2011

    In China, I tired of Korean business men talking to me about their disapproval of my solo travel.

    • December 21, 2011

      Ewwww, that’s rough. It really is eye-opening to see how other cultures view our wanton lady independence in the US. I’ve met so many folks who think we’re crazy! (But that’s ok in my book)

  • December 23, 2011

    I could not handle the cockroaches and spiders. There were massive cockroaches in my room on the island of Utila (off the coast of Honduras), and I don’t think I ever really slept once I saw them.

  • December 23, 2011

    Lovely post Angie, I thought I had an irrational fear of cockroaches, doesn’t come close to yours though. This story is so typical of Thailand, your observations are spot on, the hotel staff who always say yes, the boat captain with no regard for safety, and strange tourists, Thailand seems to attract some of the strangest people.

    • December 25, 2011

      Now that I’ve told my Thailand stories to more people I realize just how common my experience was!

  • December 24, 2011
    AlexBerger

    Haha, sweet, sweet adventure. It’s funny how the little things can really eat at you or make you feel extra lonely isn’t it?

    • December 25, 2011

      It is funny! I never expected to tire of traveling but Thailand just wore on me. I’d still think about going back though….

  • December 29, 2011

    Ok…I have a cockroach story to top all cockroach stories, and if you dont want to hear it I suggest you delete this comment right now.

    Still here? Ok So I was in Thailand (yup…Thailand) and we were in Udan Tani in the north. We had to spend the night there en route to Laos. There are no hostels or guest houses really in Udan Tani, and the ones that were there were fully booked. We found just one dingy run down dirty hotel. We decided we could bear it for one night and decided to stay.

    The walls and blankets were dirty but we had sleeping bags. The bathroom was horrific but we decided we could hold it until morning.

    We went out to get some food and came back after dark in the pouring rain. When we got to our rooms and switched on the lights we discovered that our walls had been painted black. But then the paint started to move…..and run… and…. scuttle. And eventually the hundreds of cockroaches which had covered the walls rushed past us, into the bathroom, and down the drain.

    Luckily my backpack was unopened, but boyfriend had opened up his to get a change of clothes previously and had left it open. The rest of the evening was spent with my standing on the bed screaming everytime I saw a roach, while he tried to shake the remaining bugs out of his bag.

    We spent the rest of the night walking through the pouring rain looking for another guest house.

    the end

    • December 29, 2011

      You win. I would have literally died right there on the spot. That is my worst nightmare.

  • December 31, 2011

    You sound like us! Misadventure seems to follow us wherever we go. 🙂 Sorry to hear you were sick for most of your time in Thailand.

  • January 11, 2012

    Oh, the joys of boats in South-East Asia. If you think being a solo female traveller is unusual, try being solo female with a small boy….

  • July 31, 2013

    It’s a shame you didn’t have a good time in Thailand – somewhere I’ve taken on as my new home – but to each their own. SE Asia does have giant… flying… (delicious?) cockroaches *sorry* everywhere. They just help the garbage men clean up some of the mess the tourists leave behind 😉

    “If” you ever decide to come back, will anyone else be joining you? Only one person? No husband? No boyfriend? hehe – looks like we’ll have to meet up in a different corner of the world!
    Ian Ord – Where Sidewalks End recently posted..Meet off-the-beaten-path Explorers: Craig and Caz MakepeaceMy Profile

Leave a Comment

CommentLuv badge